Each river somewhere stems and ends somewhere. The water in the river, which has been intensely devoted to the last years, the Danube, and its journey through almost the whole of Europe in the Black Sea. Just before its end it creates a delta. As the name implies, this is a vast area of triangular shape. In the widest part, where the delta is already “touching” the sea, the delta has more than 100 km. This sparsely populated area consists of a system of Danube shoulders and lakes, undercut by a dense channel network. The area 4152 km² is a kind of water world. Outside the Nordic countries, it is one of the last corners of the wild nature in Europe.
Note: The map is created manually from memory. It is not 100% accurate or complete.
The Danube Delta has attracted me for a long time. But it’s just a very much accessible place. Many people go to delta on motorboats. However, they can only move through artificially maintained channels. Interesting are the only secluded places where there is no man and where untouched nature remains. The sea kayak offers a unique option to get to such places.
I have planned to go to the delta last year. However, I have not found anyone to join me. Delta is not only terribly far away, but it’s not just a place where a normal person would want to spend their spare time. Almost none, no trades, no electricity, dense impenetrable vegetation filled with varying “hit” and of course swarms mosquitoes. Fortunately, there are also people who like the challenges and especially the flavor of discovering places like this. Dude, who was previously on a kayak just twice said that it wants to try. The charity in the Delta can therefore begin.
Well so easy it was not. Fortunately, I have recently been recognized with the Riom vodka, which is in the delts of the kayak coming back every year. I pleaded him for help and he offered me that we can meet in the Romanian city of Tulcea, where he will explain to me everything I need to know to convert us to the Danube Delta until the Black Sea.
There was also another problem. Not even a week before leaving, I crashed my bike and cracked my right fifth rib. The first days after the accident I felt every move. A more thorough examination did not reveal any damage to organs under the ribs and so the doctor told me that although it very hurts I do not have to worry. For sure, I prescribed painkillers for the case that the padling was very painful.
The trip to Delty gave us with the loading of ships and gears lasted about 20 hours. Less than 1400 km of road leads cross across Hungary and huge Romania. The Romanian dialup network is very much like ours so we can admire the Romanian countryside in part of the journey. Mainly stretches over the mountains were very nice. We were two so we took turns in driving and sleeping.
Upon arrival, the first unpleasant surprise was waiting for us. We had a reservation at the hotel, but they told me they had a swim and we got bad luck. However, it was enough to raise the voice and have a call to the Managerku of the hotel and ask her why because of their error I have to sleep on such a long road in the car. After applying for a replacement accommodation with the same conditions, a free room was found miraculously.
He soon arrived in Rio and during dinner he explained everything needed. Especially in terms of route and navigation. Delta is continuously changing and especially the less used smaller channels and passages quickly overgrown by vegetation. If you want to explore less accessible sites, no map exists. Rio gave me a record of routes, until he went. There have been marked places for camping and a few emergency places to whip. Our navigation was just Google Maps with rehearsed maps. The destination was a port in the town of Sulina. We had to come there in time to move on to the ship, which we and the kaywns are going back to Tulcea to the car.
The next morning we handled the permites to enter the delta, parking near the harbor and Romanian lei, because the euro can not be paid almost anywhere. We have been drinking equipment and supplies to the kayaks and set off on water. When the water kayaks were started after a steep slope, my rib was applied. The branch was still a few hours, but in the end I managed to stop thinking. From the beginning we have not seen anything unusual. We were flying through a canal similar to Malby Dunaju, with the difference that there were also motorboats, and there were many fishermen.
We took advantage of the first option and walked into the notional arm. They stopped us fishermen that the shoulder is impassable and that there certainly we do not walk. Looking up the map was this just the way after which I wanted to try to pass. Already after a moment there was a difference. There was a hill of water birds that had no longer been afraid of motorboats. When you are looked at the forest undergrowth, everywhere jumping different types of frogs. The mosquitoes gave us the truth that we are going in the right direction. A couple of times we also got caught up here. There was a number of fallen trees and the way through them was sometimes pretty cranicomal.
We soon pushed to the Mester Lake, where the Unreal Natural theatre was waiting for us. We have disrupted literally thousands of birds. We sat quietly in the boats and watched this spectacular show. A short distance from us was the Hejno pelicans. We tried to go closer, but the lake was so shallow that we got stuck in the mud. If it didn’t go in any direction, we had to jump out of the boat and try it differently. However, I have lost very deeply. I put my sandals in a little spread of my weight. It did not help but at least I started to proceed. I managed to fall whole into the mud and it already had the right feeling of delty. Looking into the map was seen a cross over the lake path. Here I found that the navigation will only be to determine the current location, not to indicate the direction.
When she was in the evening, we met Ria with her family. Haluz was that they went in the opposite direction. In turn, it turned out how difficult it is to navigate. We were in a different channel than I thought we were. Later, we also found out why. Sleeping was agreed by indigenous fishermen. More precisely in their garden. We have prepared several course dinners with lots of different types of fish.
Along the way we collected the starry seeds of the floating anchor. Her prickly fruits are pretty tasty. It grows well with us, but it is so rare that it is protected by law. The seeds I first saw in the Italian river fall and in abundant numbers on the lower Danube, where I get them for the first time to connect with a particular plant. The seeds are edible only if you tear them straight out of the plant. Those floating are already very hard.
The official will not sleep at all, and so are their dwellings a single place where they can be legally nocting. Otherwise, it is necessary to sew somewhere outside the channels where the boats go. The chance that you will recover rangeri reservations is almost zero.
An interesting finding was that mosquitoes here at this time of year shield only into the sunset. It immediately begins to cool down, which will dampen their activity. Conversely, a shield throughout the day.
Since the weather forecast did not indicate that it could rain at night, I slept as usual only under the mosquito. At night, however, I woke up to have started raining up. But when I opened my eyes, I saw only the sky dotted with the stars. The sleeping bag and the mosquito was dry, but even so I still heard the rain. It rained only from trees. The water was still very warm, but the air is no longer cool at night at the end of September. The water literally parts. The steam is then collinap on cool objects such as leaves of trees and rains, even if there is no one for the sky.
The next day we spent moving to the village of Míla 23, titled Not very Creative by the distance from the sea. We slept here in the garden of the guesthouse. At sunset, they attacked the swarms mosquitoes, but as soon as they cooled, they stopped. As of the day, I found out that I can speak quite well. In Romania, the overall problem is to talk. English is almost unused here. However, in the delta they live the lipation, the descendants of people in the 18th Centuries have fled Russia due to religious persecution. They speak Russian. You can talk to them much more easily than those with Serbian who also know Russian, but only as a second language.
The third day we had a big problem with the navigation. I didn’t donate to determine the direction. We stray in a circle after the vast lakes, but it didn’t make me find my way through and so we always had to go back. The lakes we went on that day were around 10. When we had both the compass in hand, everyone showed the server in a different direction. I find that my vest is picking up the compass’s hands. So far I haven’t come to it. This happens even after I put out all the metal out of it. In the delta, where there are practically no landmarks, except for the cluwings of trees, which could occasionally be identified on aerial imagery.
In the evening, we slept with fishermen again. Again, fish dressing up and long into the night chat with a homemade pond, which was drunk so that he did not even hit the bed. We had to take him away because he still fell.
In the morning we headed for a long journey through several systems of small and large lakes. I changed the way of navigation and tried to keep you north still in my head. I am often doing this while driving. Here it was about something harder, but it worked and we went exactly after the route that I chose in the morning. We were also more fortunate than the preceded day and we saw more game. In the evening we met again with the Riom. We slept on a vast meadow full of cow’s excrement, where he had a wild horse. One came to the tent. Local cows and horses are kept completely free. They live completely wildly. Later, we heard a few times to hang out the clamp of the Shakalov. They were just a short walk away from us. He toasted the fish, which poured Rio and sulphites, which can be found almost everywhere.
The fifth day began with the tour of the village of Letea, which was only a few kilometers from the meadow where we slept. The LETEU and its wider surroundings form the sand dunes. Once there was a coastline. The people of the’s sunken delta have begun to change long before Christ and they are doing it today. Although today the Delta is already part of UNESCO’s world natural heritage, and two of the three countries are part of the European Union, which should guarantee its protection, fish are still overfishing. In addition, Ukraine is doing so in its territory, which it wants despite the challenges of Romania and the EU.
The rest of the padling was very boring. The long journey to Suliny was unreally monotonous. In addition to the small settlements of Cardon, we went still long straight channels. Moreover, it is very cool. It was raining and it rained. Thanks to the rain, we found that the Parťákova Špricka is very small and cannot be deployed on a kayak. It was an important finding, because in that wind, this at sea was a big deal. We decided therefore that we will end up in Suline and we will not go to the sea. He had to blow a strong wind that could be a problem even on the Danube itself.
But the feeling that the sea would make a stone throw away and finally I won’t even see me grandone idea. Take advantage of the old canal in front of Sulina and enter the Gulf of Musursky. The channel was still narrower until finally almost disappeared. It has earned cane. The groove remained wide for kayak. It was no longer the water to see. The only chance of getting out of it was to continue ahead. The rotate was not made and reversing was unimaginable in the throne. We were therefore the cane, which made the spiders dive through the spider. Soon they were running hundreds of them after us. Different sizes, different types. At this point I realized with whom I certainly do not get back here. The spiders I found in the boat even after a few washings hose. However, the unpleasant moments stood out. We went through it out straight in the sea.
Furthermore, we could continue by the sea and bypass the Sulina Bay and Danube to drop back. However, we have been completely exhausted from all-day padges in strong winds. It would take us a minimum of three hours. So we had to go back in the same way.
Soon we arrived in Suliny. Ghost town. There were abandoned buildings, or tending ships. It used to be a prosperous city. In the year 1941 there was a strong earthquake, then famine and bombing of the Russians. Today the city is only living from fishing and modest tourism. It was already dimked and we tried to find some sort of ship, which would have taken us off. I met an older married couple as fishermen on the pier. The guy lived long in Poland and so we talked long. I tried to find out what our options are. The place where the ship was to anchor, we have long passed. He invited us to his home. We agreed that we are going to find some sort of ship and then we will return to them.
We came to the end of the city, where the only large enough ice could be loaded, which would also be able to load kayaks. She was on the next day early in the morning. With the captain we agree to get the kayaks and equipment we load on board right now. We will save the whole one day of waiting for the ship, which was supposed to take us initially.
After cleaning and loading the kayaks, we wanted to go eat somewhere. As we walked through the evening town we stopped by a fishing woman. She was a Romanian, so we didn’t understand one word. We drove with her home to him. They gave us a guest room. The Troška we feared if it will not be worse than sleep outdoors on the street somewhere in the harbor. It led us into a not very nice alley. Along the way we drove around the kicks of rubbish. Houses are crusted here. At home, however, they had a very nice and polite décor. For dinner Aunt Fried karasy and so I invited to dinner as they did not understand and we went still to look into the city.
Before the sixth morning we became a ship. For lunch we were already in Tulcea. I retreated the car so we don’t have to wear the kayaks away. Still the last lunch in Romania and followed a long journey home.
To conclude, I would like to warmly thank the Riovi for invaluable help with planning this trick, its maps and helpful advice, which makes my journey a delta exactly as I imagined it. A visit to the Danube Delta is recommended for every vodka, nature lover or fisherman. For those who want it to try on a sea kayak like us, I give attention to the Riove tours to the delta through his boating travel adventurio.
I will be back to the delta. But I would like to try another season. For example, spring. Are you adding?
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